Rose Bakery: A Parisian Café in the Middle of Manhattan (Slideshow)

Rose Bakery: A Parisian Café in the Middle of Manhattan (Slideshow)

Stop into Rose Bakery inside Dover Street Market for lunch or a pastry

Jane Bruce

Rose Carrarini and her husband Jean-Charles first opened Rose Bakery in London in 2002. Jean Charles explains their goal simply: “to make people happy through food.”

Rose Bakery: A Parisian Café in the Middle of Manhattan

Jane Bruce

Rose Carrarini and her husband Jean-Charles first opened Rose Bakery in London in 2002. Jean Charles explains their goal simply: “to make people happy through food.”


Jane Bruce

The uniqueness of Rose Bakery is obvious as soon as you walk in and are struck with the site of the quilted load-bearing pillar in the center of the café. As few tables are available for seating on the ground floor, as well as some additional tables in the mezzanine.

Pastry Case

Jane Bruce

The cakes in the pastry case are made fresh daily by pastry chef Matthew Lodes, and often include varieties such as chocolate-almond polenta, pistachio, and red currant.

Matcha Cake

Jane Bruce

Pair a slice of matcha cake with one of their many tea varieties.

Pistachio and Chocolate

Jane Bruce

The pastry offerings can change daily, but you'll likely be able to find pistachio and this chocolate marble.

Savory Items

Jane Bruce

It's not just sweets in the pastry case; they also offer a variety of savory items, including this version of bruschetta.


Jane Bruce

For lunch, try the cod fillet atop seasonal vegetables: lima beans, corn, and tomatoes.


Jane Bruce

This heaping bowl of vegetables is tasty and full of variety. From the top, chickpeas and eggplant, sugar snap peas, shredded carrots, broccoli, and potatoes fill the dish.

Berry Cake

Jane Bruce

Summer is the best time for fresh berries. They're piled high on this cake, including strawberries, blackberries, blueberries, and white and red currants.

Second Floor

Jane Bruce

When you're done eating, explore the other floors of Dover Street Market and the designer apparel throughout.


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The best treats at NYC’s oldest bakeries

While one venerable NYC bakery readies its last cookies, several century-old shops are still serving classic treats.

They own it

A lunatic decision on teacher tenure

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On April 2, 1902, Glaser’s Bake Shop opened its doors in Yorkville, at a time when the IRT ran on elevated tracks above nearby Second Avenue. On July 1, 2018, the space will close for good.

“I’m getting older and … I’m listening to my body, and it’s time to take a break,” says third-generation co-owner Herb Glaser, 65, who, along with his brother, John, will retire.

So make it a priority to head to its First Avenue storefront where you can still read the original tiled inscription on the floor that says “John Glaser Inc.,” for its founder, the brothers’ grandfather.

One of the shop’s longtime treats, served since the shop debuted 116 years ago, is the classic black-and-white cookie ($2.50 each minis, $16 per pound), a New York staple. While the miniature versions have the typical chocolate-and-vanilla fondant icing, the larger ones are quite different with the yellow drop cake instead topped with chocolate and vanilla frosting.

“They’re very big sellers,” says Glaser — as are the shop’s brownies ($2.50 each).

Other original items include Linzer tarts ($3.50 each minis, $20 per pound), other treats have been added over the years. The recipe for “honey bees” — sugary bars with dried fruit and nuts ($20 per pound) — was inherited from nearby Kramer’s Pastries (1950-1999).

Herb and John’s grandfather, John, purchased the building and then opened the bakery. The brothers grew up there and Herb still lives above the shop.

“I’m glad they’re closing because they’re retiring, and not because they’re being pushed out because of rent,” says customer Monica Gilbert, 39, who works in the area.

Glaser’s isn’t the only place to get a taste of the old New York. Here’s a look at more of the city’s oldest bakeries still serving up great bites — and history.

Review: Jonathan Gold finds much to like at Rose Café in Venice &#8212 pepperoni pizza with honey, anyone?

Customers dine inside the bigger-than-you-might-expect Rose Cafe in Venice.

(Genaro Molina / Los Angeles Times)

Cauliflower “T-bone” is on the menu at the Rose Cafe.

(Genaro Molina / Los Angeles Times)

Testa pastrami is on the menu.

(Genaro Molina / Los Angeles Times)

Chef Jason Neroni, right, talks to staff members.

(Genaro Molina / Los Angeles Times)

Chocolate tart is on the menu.

(Genaro Molina / Los Angeles Times)

Sugar snap peas at the Rose Cafe.

(Genaro Molina / Los Angeles Times)

Smoked bucatini carbonara at the Rose Cafe.

(Genaro Molina / Los Angeles Times)

A customer exits through the main doorway of the Rose Cafe in Venice.

(Genaro Molina / Los Angeles Times)

You are in Venice. You have probably spent the last 20 minutes looking for a place to park. And you are walking into the Rose Café, a sprawling aircraft hangar of a restaurant that is somehow five times the size it appears from the street. Prints from skateboard-art godfather C.R. Stecyk III line the walls. Potted plants are suspended from the bar ceiling in macramé slings the woven lamps hanging from the canopy over the patio look like something your mom may have picked up at Pier 1 in 1973. The wait for coffee and pastries in the morning is usually longer than the wait for a table on the vast patio.

Rose Café has been an institution in Venice since the late 1970s, a funky bit of stability in a neighborhood that changed its mood every couple of years and a hangout for what remains of the local arts community. The lovely mural of a rose on its exterior was — is — widely considered a civic treasure. The eggs Benedict and baked goods were iconic. You could always find a modest art show on the walls.

The neighborhood mourned when the restaurant was taken over by the Sprout Restaurant Group, the company whose restaurants include Bestia, Otium, Moruno and Republique. Sprout’s currency is the celebrity chef Rose Café, although you would often bump into someone like Frank Gehry or Arnold Schwarzenegger, was the opposite of a destination restaurant, a place you went in spite of the food, not because of it. But the space, remodeled by Studio Unltd (which also designed Bestia and Otium), is still pretty recognizably Venice. It’s the kind of place where you know you can get a soy milk chai latte with your breakfast burrito even before you are presented with a menu.

The chef is Jason Neroni, whom you may remember from the original Superba just a few blocks up the street, where he practiced a sort of abstracted Italian cooking that included familiar tastes and textures without actually duplicating an actual Italian dish. Rose Café took awhile to put together — Neroni opened the short-lived Marina del Rey seafood restaurant Catch & Release in the meantime. And when Rose reopened, it seemed as if it had always been there: sprawling deli cases, massive bakery, loud bar and leafy patios, lubricated with Verve espresso in the morning and Nick Meyer-designed cocktails at night. There is something to be said for a wine list whose go-to hearty red seems to be a Turkish Öküzgözü instead of a Napa Cabernet and offers sparkling Müller-Thurgau instead of Champagne.

If you liked Neroni’s cured meats at Superba, you will be happy with the charcuterie here: his famous “porchetta di testa,” head cheese cured to resemble pastrami seared thumbs of soft rabbit mortadella served with a fried quail egg blinding-white lardo with mulberries and a sweet, butter-smooth chicken-liver mousse with a bit of onion jam — or all of them served on a plank. It is hard to find fault in a plate of grilled asparagus topped with a fried egg and sprinkled with nasturtium blossoms (there are a lot of flowers and eggs on the plates here) or his signature grilled cauliflower “T-bone” frosted with capers, almonds and raisins or a sweet-skinned roast chicken with carrots and soft, white rolls.

Still, it is a huge job to serve the multitudes who course through a crowded restaurant this large, and it is often difficult to get the details right. One afternoon plate of burrata, Puglia-style cream-stuffed mozzarella from the local cheesemaker Gioia, is dressed up with strawberries, arugula, blossoms and toasted bread, like a Nordic take on a Caprese salad. It was lovely to look at, almost a Mother’s Day display, but the flavors clashed oddly, the herbs and the sugary tartness of the berries making the cheese taste more bitter than bland. Crisp Brussels sprouts, a highlight at Superba, seemed almost to collapse into their puddle of dark broth. Baked sugar snap peas were limp, greased rather than flavored by the little mound of whipped lamb fat that came with them.

Neroni is well-known for his pasta, particularly his creamy, lightly smoked bucatini carbonara and his spaghetti in a miso-enhanced cacio e pepe. He was one of the first chefs in Los Angeles to embrace what has become a dominant style of stiff, grainy house-made pasta. (Dried pasta is almost always better bought than made — make your own tagliatelle, but buy your penne.) And the pasta here, even the eggy pasta used to make the English pea agnolotti, tends to be distracting: tough, dry, soggy on the surface but barely cooked through. A dish of spaghetti with Dungeness crab and local uni should be luxurious, almost sybaritic. It isn’t.

Still, there is a lot to like here, including the pork belly in a mild Thai coconut broth the eggplant with cherries the brunch avocado toast with fried duck egg and the flaky chocolate croissants. I am fond of the pepperoni pizza drizzled with honey, which is improbably good. The crisp black fried rice with squid and aioli is not quite as delicious as its equivalent at Dudley Market a few blocks away, but it is good enough. The farmers market produce is first rate. And everyone should try the dense chocolate tart, as bitter as it is tart, at least once.

Comfort Food From the Caucasus, Served Up in Brooklyn

Toné Café, in Brighton Beach, Brooklyn, specializes in Georgian cuisine. It is known for serving khachapuri, a famous Georgian bread.

Credit. Christopher Lee for The New York Times

Toné Café, in Brighton Beach, Brooklyn, specializes in Georgian cuisine. It is known for serving khachapuri, a famous Georgian bread.

Credit. Christopher Lee for The New York Times

A toné — a brick oven that resembles an Indian tandoor — overwhelms the bakery that adjoins a sit-down dining area of the cafe.

Credit. Christopher Lee for The New York Times

A diner at Toné, which sits four blocks from the Atlantic Ocean in an area known as Little Odessa. A number of Georgian bakeries in the area are exploiting Russians’ love of Georgian food.

Credit. Christopher Lee for The New York Times

The khachapuri is not for the carb-phobic.

Credit. Christopher Lee for The New York Times

Skewers of lamb on the grill.

Credit. Christopher Lee for The New York Times

Lasha Janashvili, cleaning the inside of the oven, is Toné‘s “main master of bread-making,” according to Nikoloz Chkheidze, the owner. The recipe came with him from Georgia, Mr. Janashvili said.

Credit. Christopher Lee for The New York Times

Roasted baby chicken on its way to the dining area.

Credit. Christopher Lee for The New York Times

Staff members presented a birthday treat on a recent Saturday.

Credit. Christopher Lee for The New York Times

Credit. Christopher Lee for The New York Times

Some versions of the khachapuri ooze with egg and cheese.

Credit. Christopher Lee for The New York Times

The dining space, which was added to the bakery two years ago by Mr. Chkheidze, is cozy, with wallpaper painted to look like stone and windows that look into the bakery.

Credit. Christopher Lee for The New York Times

Toné has a takeout branch in Manhattan, and Mr. Chkheidze plans on adding more locations. “Our approach is to propose new taste to American markets, American community,” he said.

Credit. Christopher Lee for The New York Times

On a recent Friday evening in Brighton Beach, a cool breeze made its way inland from the water, and Toné Café, New York’s oldest Georgian bakery, seemed a wrinkle in time, the stations of immigration all represented at once. A jazz band played just loud enough to drown out the conversation of a middle-aged trio of Russians at the corner table, two men and a woman with weathered faces methodically making their way through a bottle of vodka. At another table, four young men, recent immigrants from the Caucasus, argued and laughed. At a third table, two American families were enjoying the food and wine.

Toné Café is tucked snugly between an auto-parts shop and a Chinese takeout on Neptune Avenue, just four blocks from the Atlantic Ocean. The restaurant is named for the “toné,” a brick oven, similar to an Indian tandoor, that bakes the luscious strips of salty bread. Nikoloz Chkheidze, 45, one of three current owners, added the sit-down area two years ago. It’s an intimate space, with parquet floors and wallpaper painted to look like stone. A window into the bakery allows diners to watch the bread being made by Lasha Janashvili, the bear-size “main master of breadmaking,” as Mr. Chkheidze put it, who slaps the loaves against the inside of the oven where they stick and bake. The recipe, Mr. Janashvili said, came with him from Georgia. “Mainly secret,” he added with a sly grin.

Brighton Beach has long been known as Little Odessa for the waves of immigrants it absorbed from the Soviet Union. Catering to this community are Russian superstores, Russian radio and TV stations, and a City Council campaign boasting rival Soviet-born candidates and featuring an anonymous robocall that accused one of them of a sordid KGB past. (Another candidate, favored by the district’s large Orthodox Jewish population, eventually won.) And now, a number of Georgian bakeries are exploiting Russians’ love of Georgian food.

“Georgian food, it’s something special,” explained Mila Dubravina, 68, who is originally from St. Petersburg and lives in Bensonhurst. Ms. Dubravina had come to Toné Café on a recent afternoon with two friends. It was her first time — she had seen an advertisement for the restaurant on Russian TV, and came to revive memories of Georgia from her younger days. “Georgians are very good people, very sympathetic, very friendly, very — how you say — hospitality,” she recalled fondly.

Georgia sits below Russia on the Black Sea, sharing a border with Turkey and Armenia. Georgian food is to Russians what Italian food is to Americans — the savory proceeds of a supposedly hot-blooded people respected for their ancient culture, their mastery of wine and their hospitality. “What is hidden from a guest belongs to the devil,” they say in Georgia. In addition to the famous bread, Georgian food is known for a sumptuous pizza-like creation called khachapuri, which oozes with hot cheese and eggs baked into the dough.

On that same afternoon, a woman named Olga had come from Manhattan to eat at Toné Café. When asked to provide her last name, Olga, like many Soviet émigrés, simply shook her head no, as if to say, “Of course not.” But she did say that she came to the United States in 1981 from Moscow, where she regularly ate Georgian food. Of New York’s Georgian offerings, she said, Toné’s were the best.

“Our approach is to propose new taste to American markets, American community,” Mr. Chkheidze said. He has a takeout branch of Toné Café in Manhattan, and hopes to expand to five or 10 more locations. “Georgian culture is very welcoming culture,” he said. “What you give — it’s yours. And what you don’t give — it’s lost.”

CIA New York Restaurants and Brewery

Our students are excited to welcome you back to American Bounty Restaurant and The Bocuse Restaurant! Reservations are required. Apple Pie Bakery Café is open only to guests that have reservations at American Bounty or The Bocuse restaurants, or CIA Foodies class participants. Ristorante Caterina de’ Medici remains closed at this time.

American Bounty Restaurant—OPENING MAY 25

With a focus on the seasons and products of the Hudson Valley, contemporary and traditional regional dishes are brought to life at the American Bounty Restaurant in an honest and flavorful way. Rounded out with a first-class American wine list and comfortable warm service, this casually elegant restaurant sets the stage for an unparalleled dining experience in New York’s Hudson Valley.

The Bocuse Restaurant—OPENING MAY 25

Sleek and strikingly contemporary, this French restaurant is named for the most famous chef in France, Paul Bocuse. The Bocuse Restaurant re-imagines the execution of classic French cuisine through the lens of ultra-modern cooking techniques, brings a new style of casual yet sophisticated service, and offers a breathtaking architectural interior design. With a great French wine list and innovative cocktail program, The Bocuse Restaurant is a unique and exciting, world-class dining experience.

Apple Pie Bakery Café—OPENING MAY 25

Enjoy classic café favorites and new crave-worthy sweet and savory selections prepared by CIA students under the instruction of world-class faculty. To protect the health and safety of our students, faculty, staff, and guests, Apple Pie Bakery Café is not yet fully open to the public, and only guests with an existing reservation at American Bounty or The Bocuse restaurants may visit. Currently, we are offering takeout only.

Ristorante Caterina de’ Medici and Al Forno Trattoria— CLOSED UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE

Truly authentic regional Italian cuisine takes center stage at Ristorante Caterina de’ Medici, a sophisticated dining room overlooking a stunning herb and rose garden, and the Hudson River. Or enjoy wood oven pizza and other simple rustic dishes in the more casual Al Forno Trattoria. Dining at this grand Tuscan-style villa is a culinary escape to another world without ever having to leave the beautiful Hudson Valley.



The Brewery at the CIA is primarily a classroom where bachelor’s-level students learn about the ingredients, equipment, and techniques required to produce ales and lagers. It was created in 2015 in partnership with Brooklyn Brewery, whose brewers and business executives often serve as guest lecturers. The class helps future food professionals think differently about beer, elevating its status as a fine beverage on a level with wine.

Special Dining Events

The CIA Restaurant Group welcomes you to another season of tantalizing tastings, enlightening lectures, and delicious dining. We have exciting new events highlighting wines and spirits, culinary journeys through the Italian countryside, and celebrations of farm-to-table fare.

Student Charity Dining Events

Presented by CIA bachelor’s degree students, these events help raise money for local charities. These future stars in the hospitality industry are responsible for all of the planning and execution, from menu development to the overall ambiance and design of the events.

Israeli pastry chef conquers Manhattan

In her wildest dreams she never imagined that years later she would be opening up a bakery in the Big Apple, reminiscent of her grandmother's kibbutz home, selling homemade cakes and cookies based on her family recipes.

"I left Israel in my twenties and went out to see the world," she tells Ynet. "When Yaniv and I arrived in New York my plan was to work for six months and then continue to travel. We've been here ever since."

Zohar at Zucker Bakery in Manhattan

Zohar says she has been passionate about cooking and baking since she was a child. "When we got to New York I decided to go to culinary school. I went to a very prestigious school and afterwards worked for many esteemed restaurants in New York."

After deciding to start a family Zohar left the demanding culinary world, but continued to bake at home. "I never studied to become a pastry chef, but it turned out I really loved it," she explains.

"A close friend, who is one of the leading pastry chefs in the United States, tasted my pastry and was very impressed," Zohar recalls. "At one point it became very clear to me and Yaniv that we wanted to open a café with a bakery."

Up for an award

Their dreams came true. Four months ago the couple opened their business in the big city and named it Zucker Bakery, after Zohar's maiden name.

"I knew I wanted it to feel very homey, like you're sitting in someone's living room with a kitchen behind you," she says. "I wanted it to be very Israeli and look like my grandmother's home."

Zohar collected her family's old recipes for the East Village shop. "When Israelis come here they recognize about 90% of the recipes. The Americans, however, don't recognize anything, but despite that they tell me it makes them feel like I just took them to visit their grandma's home."

The Israeli-style bakery is filled with alfajores, rugelach, halvah-and-date breakfast pastry, dried fruit, chocolate balls and more.

"I was very surprised by people's reactions and the success of the place," Zohar admits. "People come in, smell the baking aroma, taste, and tell me how their grandmother would make the same things. After they get up, they fix the napkin on the sofa, put back the dishes. It's part of the experience here. It's a living-room feel, very different from the New York trend. Everything is more personal here."

When it first opened, Zohar's parents arrived from Israel to celebrate. They were excited to see the bakery was named after their family.

Meanwhile, just this week Zohar learned that the Zucker Bakery is a finalist on Time Out Magazine's annual food awards.

Baked goods 'make us swoon'

Do you have a distinct memory of a local bakery - or a favorite baked good? Please share it in the comments section that follows the main bakeries article or email Carol Deptolla at [email protected].

Former bakers or their families: Consider sharing a recipe from a bakery that no longer exists for possible inclusion in a future article. It's a way for the bakery to live on, other than just in customers' memories. Send recipes to [email protected] or to Carol Deptolla, Milwaukee Journal Sentinel, P.O. Box 661, Milwaukee, WI 53201.

In some ways, one family's story is Milwaukee's story, too, when it comes to bakeries past and present: the Pinahs bakery.

It follows a familiar arc that begins with neighborhood store opened by immigrant baker, followed by fantastic growth. Like some bakeries - such as the giant but still family-owned Grebe's - it turned to large-scale baking also like others, it vanished, in a way. And then, the next chapter: an offshoot, a specialty bakehouse.

Bakeries hold a beloved place in Milwaukee, where people still ask where to get decent rye bread and where the word itself denotes not only the place but the product, as in "I'm going to the bakery to get some bakery," a quirk of Milwaukee dialect.

"Baked goods, in my estimation, even more so than sausage and cheeses, are heartfelt favorites in terms of foodways," said Terese Allen, an author and expert on the regional foods of Wisconsin.

"Our bodies don't need it, but our hearts do. Baked goods just make us swoon," she added.

Milwaukee's immigrants in the 20th century opened bakeries that flourished as residents flocked to them for staples such as Italian bread and hard rolls, and sweet treats such as schnecks and kruschiki.

You could expect to find certain bakeries in certain neighborhoods, broadly speaking, to serve the population: Italian on the lower east side, Polish on the south side and in Riverwest, German and Jewish on the north and west sides, for instance.

Historian John Gurda notes that buying local in the first half of the 20th century wasn't a trend, "it was a necessity." City residents walked to the shops in their neighborhoods for what they needed before automobile ownership was widespread.

Dave Schmidt, executive director of the Wisconsin Bakers Association, said there were so many bakeries in Wisconsin in the late 19th century that each community had its own bakers organization.

The "Remember When&hellip?" feature in the former Milwaukee Journal (now available through the Milwaukee Public Library) said 280 bakers and confectioners were listed in the Milwaukee City Directory in 1900.

According to the state division that licenses bakers, only 67 bakers hold state licenses now in all of Milwaukee County, which includes traditional storefronts as well as grocers and food processors.

Some neighborhood bakeries began dying out in the 1960s, coinciding in part with the rise of supermarkets and one-stop shopping. Consumers' habits changed, Schmidt said, and sometimes bakeries simply closed because owners didn't want to sell to someone who wouldn't run it the same way.

Schmidt began baking for the local Militzer's chain when he moved to Milwaukee in 1978. Militzer's had been in business for six decades when it closed in 1987.

He remembers the Vienna tortes, the bienenstich, the sour rye - 2-pound loaves formed by hand and slid on peels into 500-degree ovens.

"I don't miss those days at all, but I miss the bread immensely," he said.

Chris Pinahs, whose grandfather opened a bakery on W. Center St., said probably a half-dozen bakeries stood within the densely populated neighborhood from N. 20th to N. 39th streets, with names such as Heinemann, Strupp and Pipp, and each had its own specialty.

A bit farther west was Miller Bakery, then a neighborhood bakery known for its light Jewish rye. The bakeries weren't recognized by their owners' religion so much as the color of their rye, Pinahs said.

His grandfather, Christ Pinahs, came from northern Germany near Denmark and opened his first bakery on W. Lisbon Ave. near N. 22nd St. in 1917, then moved his bakery to N. 39th and W. Center streets about a year later. His son, George, took over the business.

The family lived above the bakery, and Chris Pinahs remembers as a child going to bed to the sound of the stand mixer whirring in the bakery below. "It was like counting sheep every night," he said.

Then in the '60s, as Milwaukee's population was shifting and supermarkets were making their impact, the Pinahs storefront closed and the family focused on a product that had become hugely popular: rye chips, initially made from leftover bread by Marjorie Pinahs, Chris' mother, and then from bread made expressly for chips.

Chis and his brother Carl took over the business in the 1970s, and that business really boomed when the chips became part of the local Gardetto snack mix. At one point, Chris said, the Pinahs plant in Waukesha County was making 400,000 pounds of rye chips a week.

Then General Mills bought Gardetto Pinahs' chips were no longer used in the product. Ultimately the company sought bankruptcy protection and was sold in 2007 to Racine Danish Kringles it continues as Legacy Bakehouse.

Chris Pinahs wasn't finished with baking.

He and his wife, Barbara, started the wholesale Stone Bank Baking in Oconomowoc in 2008. But instead of fried, salty snacks, he launched HeartSnacks.

The bite-sized, lightly sweet, heart-shaped snacks come in flavors such as caramel apple and strawberry chocolate walnut. Labeled as low in sodium and saturated fat and containing healthful omega-3 fatty acids, they're sold through stores such as Outpost Natural Foods and Sendik's Markets.

And Pinahs is making bread again, such as salted rye. It's one of several kinds that Stone Bank sells wholesale to area restaurants its other breads are pan rye, sourdough baguette, rustic white and ciabatta.

The evolution of bakeries continues. Although many neighborhood shops have departed, some continue with new owners. Peter Sciortino Bakery on E. Brady St. remains vital 15 years after siblings Giuseppe, Luigi and Maria Vella took it over National Bakery & Deli not only continued on S. 16th St. after it first changed hands, it expanded, to Brookfield and Greendale.

New bakeries pop up in buildings where other bakeries have closed, sometimes reflecting the changing wave of immigration patterns. San Angel Panaderia, a Mexican bakery, now sells treats such as sweet guava empanadas at 960 W. Oklahoma Ave., where previously Polish babka and Italian bread were sold.

And sometimes traces of the bakeries of old can be found in next-generation businesses. Take East Side Ovens. It started on N. Murray St. in 1994 when the owner of Vann's Pastry Shop sold the business.

East Side Ovens moved to the Bay View neighborhood about a dozen years ago and itself was sold six years ago. It became a completely vegan bakery over the years - no eggs, dairy or honey - but it still makes several cookies from Vann's recipes, said Amanda Maierhafer, who owns East Side Ovens with her husband, Doug. They still make pecan fingers that melt in the mouth, thick ginger cookies and sugar cookies, too.

East Side Ovens is primarily a wholesale baker, sending its goods to coffeehouses such as Anodyne in Bay View and grocery stores such as Sendik's, Grasch and Outpost Natural Foods, and at retailers in Madison as well.

But customers also can find their goods at some farmers markets in summer, and neighbors shop at the bakery at 2899 S. Kinnickinnic Ave. from 8 to noon on Saturdays, in its little storefront.

What's next for bakeries? A look at the landscape shows some bakers returning to artisanal roots.

"What I'm seeing is a renewed appreciation for what's made from scratch," said Allen, the regional-foods expert.

Some are finding niches in specialty goods, such as cupcakes, or in goods that cater to specific diets, such as vegan or gluten-free or heart-healthy. One wholesale baker, Cybros - the Sprouted Bakehouse in Waukesha, has been specializing in breads made with good-for-you sprouted grain since 1969.

A growing area is the combined bakery and café. A study published in the Nation's Restaurant News in October found that significantly more consumers said they had visited a bakery-café (albeit one of the national chains), and that it was a growing segment of the restaurant market, both in outlets and sales.

It may well be the future of bakeries, said Schmidt, of the Wisconsin Bakers Association, considering Americans are dining out more.

In fact, Milwaukee Area Technical College is adding a bakery-café to the first floor of its main building downtown in summer 2013.

Besides selling baked goods made by pastry students, the bakery-café will sell light breakfasts, soups, salads and sandwiches, spokeswoman Kathleen Hohl said.

"The retail side (of bakeries) is being transformed, and hopefully the existence of the café will give students that operational experience as well," she said.

Bakery-cafes in Milwaukee range from full service restaurants with bakery cases - such as Le Reve Café & Patisserie in Wauwatosa and Honeypie Café and Café Perrin in Milwaukee - to numerous bakeries that offer a sandwich or soup, such as Wildflour Bakery and Amaranth.

Another artisanal bakery, Rocket Baby Bakery at 6822 W. North Ave., Wauwatosa, opened just last week, near the doughnut shop-pizzeria Cranky Al's. Rocket Baby will have a café component, too.

Baker Geoff Trenholme, who studied baking in California, opened the shop with his wife, Shannon, a Tosa native. He bakes breads such as baguettes and Polish, or medium, rye made with sour starter, as well as croissants and scones.

Even the shop itself has a retro feel, with its hexagonal-tile floor and marble counter - a little bit Paris boulangerie, a little bit Tosa bungalow.

For now Rocket Baby sells coffee and espresso in addition to its baked goods. But it also will begin selling sandwiches in the weeks ahead. Trenholme, who said customers have reminisced about the baked goods they used to buy at defunct bakeries up and down North Ave., said he'd like to expand into wholesale offerings someday.

"First of all," though, he said, "we're a neighborhood bakery."


Amaranth Bakery on Milwaukee's west side often uses flours other than wheat in its breads, rolls and desserts.

Amaranth's Fresh Fruit Galette Makes 6 small or 1 large galette (6 servings)

¼ cup cornmeal or amaranth flour

½ cup (1 stick) cold butter, cut into 1-inch squares

2 tablespoons sour cream or yogurt

2 to 4 tablespoons butter

Coarse raw sugar for sprinkling

In bowl of a food processor, combine flours, salt and sugar. Pulse to combine. Add the ½ cup butter pieces and pulse 10 to 15 times, until butter is evenly distributed and well combined. Small pieces of butter should still be discernible. Add water and sour cream and pulse until dough forms a sticky ball. Wrap and place in refrigerator at least 2 hours, or overnight.

(Dough also can be made by hand using a pastry blender.)

Roll out dough into either 6 small 3- to 4-inch rounds or one 10-inch round. Place on a baking sheet covered with parchment paper. For the small galettes, place 2 inches apart. On center of round, within 1 ½ inches of edge for large galette and 1 inch of edge for small galette, place fresh fruit, such as a mix of whole, small berries or thickly sliced strawberries thin slices of pear or apple poached, sliced quince or sliced apples and fresh cranberries. Fold the edges in 1 inch over the fruit. Place in freezer 15 minutes.

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Just before baking, dot top of galette or galettes with the 2 to 4 tablespoons butter, and drizzle honey over fruit. Sprinkle raw sugar over edges of crust. Bake in preheated oven 20 minutes for small galettes and 30 to 40 minutes for the 1 large galette .

Notes: If you wish, add nuts to the fruit, such as walnuts with apples or hazelnuts with pear. Spelt and amaranth flours are sold at natural foods stores such as Outpost and Whole Foods and some grocery stores.

This recipe is from the new vegan bakery Compassionate Cake on N. Farwell Ave.

Compassionate Cake Mojito Shortbread Bars Makes 12

¼ cup fresh organic mint leaves, stems removed

3 tablespoons plus 1/3 cup organic granulated sugar (divided)

Grated zest of 1 organic lemon

Grated zest of 1 organic lime

1/3 cup organic powdered sugar

¾ cup cold vegan margarine, cut into small pieces

Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Grease an 8-inch square baking pan and line with parchment paper.

In bowl of a food processor, combine mint and the 3 tablespoons granulated sugar. Pulse until mint is finely chopped and well combined with the sugar. Set mint sugar aside.

Wipe food processor bowl clean and add remaining 1/3 cup sugar, the flour, zests and powdered sugar. Pulse until well combined. Add the cold margarine pieces and process until mixture forms small crumbs. Finally, add the extract.

Pour crumbs into prepared pan and pack down firmly with back of a spatula. Top with the mint sugar. Bake in preheated oven about 45 minutes to an hour, until shortbread is light golden brown. Cool completely before cutting into squares.

Chris Pinahs of Stone Bank Baking found this recipe in his father's recipe books from around 1939 that listed formulations for the former Pinahs Bakery, which for decades had a presence on W. Center St.

Date and Nut Bread Makes 2 loaves

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature

1 tablespoon baking powder

1 ¼ cups (6 ounces) chopped dates, soaked 30 minutes in 1 cup hot water

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease and flour two 9-by-5-inch loaf pans.

In bowl using electric mixer, thoroughly cream sugar and butter. Mix in salt, baking powder and baking soda. Add eggs one at a time, mixing thoroughly. Gradually stir in flour. Stir in dates with their water, then walnuts. Divide batter between pans and bake in preheated oven 40 to 45 minutes, until tester inserted into center comes out clean. Let cool 10 minutes in pans, then turn out onto a rack to cool completely. Wrap tightly in foil.

Debbie Gale, owner of the Milwaukee Cupcake Company in the Third Ward, says tinting the frosting lavender for these cupcakes would be nice for Easter or Mother's Day. The floral flavorings make these cupcakes springlike.

Milwaukee Cupcake Company Lavender Rose Water Cupcakes Makes 18

1 tablespoon baking powder

1 ½ cups extra-fine granulated sugar (also called bakers sugar)

¾ cup (1 ½ sticks) unsalted butter, soft and at room temperature

4 large organic eggs, room temperature

1 cup organic whole milk, room temperature

1 tablespoon dried lavender flowers, slightly crushed but not pulverized

Rose Water Swiss Meringue Buttercream (see recipe)

Additional dried lavender flowers for garnish

You will need a 5- or 6-quart heavy-duty mixer for this recipe.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Coat cupcake pans with vegetable oil spray and line with cupcake liners.

All ingredients need to be at the same room temperature or you will not be able to create an emulsion, which is essential to any cake recipe working properly.

Sift together the flour, baking powder and salt, into a large bowl.

Beat sugar and butter in the mixer at medium speed, until fluffy, and until you can no longer feel the granules of sugar between your fingers this is the first step to creating an essential emulsion. Scrape the bowl several times in between, until sugar is dissolved. Add one egg at a time, beating well after each addition. Add the rosewater and beat well. Stop mixer and add 1/3 of the flour mixture with 1/3 of the milk, and beat on slow, just until mixed repeat this process and scrape bowl each time with the last batch, throw in the crushed lavender flower, and beat well just until all the flour is mixed in smoothly and there are no clumps. Do not walk away from your mixer while you are mixing a cake batter and do not overmix. This will cause your cake to be flat and not a nice consistency. Eyeball your batter to ensure there is enough lavender flower to promote even distribution throughout all cupcakes add a little bit extra if need be.

Scoop into cupcake pans, dividing evenly among 18 cups, and bake in preheated oven 18 to 25 minutes, depending on your oven's temperature halfway through, turn pans around 180 degrees. Watch carefully cupcakes should be slightly light brown around the edges and lighter in the middle and the cake should spring up when touched in the middle if your finger leaves an indentation and does not spring back, it needs a couple more minutes.

Once done, remove from oven and let sit in cupcake pan 5 minutes then remove cupcakes and place on rack to cool. If decorating later, cool about 40 to 45 minutes and then place in an airtight container or wrap in plastic to ensure freshness. Otherwise, after cooling, frost immediately to seal in moisture. Frost with Rose Water Swiss Meringue Buttercream and garnish with lavender flowers.

Note: Dried lavender flowers are available at Penzey's and the Spice House.

Rose water Swiss meringue buttercream:

5 large organic egg whites, room temperature

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-fine granulated sugar (also called bakers sugar)

2 cups (4 sticks) butter, cut into small cubes, soft and at room temperature

1 ½ teaspoons pure rose water

You'll need a pot of simmering water on the stove, a candy thermometer and a 5- or 6-quart heavy-duty mixer for this recipe.

Key starting point: all ingredients must be at the same room temperature before beginning.

Combine egg whites, sugar and salt in a stainless steel or copper bowl that fits over a double boiler or a pot of simmering water. Whisk over the hot simmering water (using insulated gloves). Whisk briskly while either holding a candy thermometer in the mixture or clipping it onto the side of the bowl. It is imperative to whisk the mixture until the sugar granules are dissolved (mixture will be smooth to the touch when rubbed between your fingers). This mixture must be heated to 140 degrees to ensure eggs are safe for consumption. At this temperature, your sugar granules should be completely dissolved if you've been whisking briskly.

Pour mixture into your mixer bowl. Using the whisk attachment and starting slow, whip the mixture about 20 seconds on low and then gradually increase to a medium-high speed and whisk until stiff peaks form continue mixing until it is fluffy and flossy like a meringue and has cooled a bit. This will take about 8 to 10 minutes.

Add butter, a few chunks at a time, until you get the perfect consistency of light and fluffy, but still holding peaks, stopping to scrape the bowl several times. Once all the butter has been added, switch to the paddle attachment and add the rose water. Beat on medium-high speed another couple of minutes until it is completely smooth it should be light and fluffy and hold a peak.

You may add a very pale lavender tint to the buttercream as well using a toothpick, use only a very small amount of lavender gel-paste food coloring to get the desired effect. Whip until color is incorporated.

If using buttercream the same day or the very next morning, leave at room temperature. If using later than that, refrigerate but before using, let come to room temperature first and re-whip in the mixture until you get the same consistency as before. Frosting will keep about a week in the fridge.

Note: Rose water can be found at the Spice House and some specialty grocers, including Glorioso's Italian Market, Indian Groceries & Spices and Holy Land Grocery & Bakery

This recipe from Journal Sentinel files was submitted by Barbara King of Milwaukee, whose husband, Gordon King, was an owner of the now-closed Wilbert's Bakery on the north side "for many years." The high-gluten flour, available at health food stores, is an important ingredient. But bread flour can be used.

Wilbert's Bakery German Hard Rolls Makes about 2 dozen rolls

3 tablespoons active dry yeast (4 packets)

6 tablespoons lard (solid vegetable shortening can be substituted), room temperature

Solid vegetable shortening to coat pans

Yellow cornmeal to coat pans (white cornmeal can be substituted)

Starch wash to coat rolls

To make dough: Blend yeast, water and sugar thoroughly. Let stand 5 minutes to produce a "sponge" (the consistency of a pancake batter). Add lard, then most of the flour. Gradually add remaining flour as needed, mixing until dough is pliable. Add salt. This goes in last so salt doesn't retard growth of yeast.

Using mixer with dough hook, mix 7 to 10 minutes until dough is elastic and glossy. It should pull away from the sides of bowl and cling to the dough hook. Adjust with flour if needed. If dough clings completely to dough hook, scrape down periodically. Remove dough from bowl, form a ball and set on work surface. If dough spreads, it is too soft and will need additional kneading. Knead by hand until dough is elastic and holds together.

Lightly oil a clean bowl. Transfer ball of dough to bowl and turn to coat. Cover and let rise in a warm spot 30 to 60 minutes, or until a thumbprint indentation remains.

To shape rolls: Punch down dough. Grease a half-sheet pan or a jellyroll pan with vegetable shortening and dust with cornmeal. Shape dough into about 2 dozen balls, 2 to 3 ounces each. Set rolls onto the prepared pans and let rest 10 minutes. Use dowel or other stick to press a dividing line into each roll, but don't go all the way through. Oil rolls lightly with pastry brush after shaping. Cover and let rise in warm place about 45 minutes.

When rolls are almost done rising, preheat oven to 400 degrees. Put a metal cup with about 8 ounces of water at the bottom of the oven to help make outside of rolls hard. Make starch wash: boil 1 cup water, mix ½ to ¾ teaspoon cornstarch in a small amount of water and then mix into boiling water. Use to coat tops of rolls.

Bake rolls in preheated oven 17 to 18 minutes, removing cup of water from oven after about 5 minutes. Rotate rolls from top rack to bottom rack, then later turn the trays on their racks. Rolls are done when outsides are hard and they are golden brown.

Share bakery memories

Do you have a distinct memory of a local bakery - or a favorite baked good? Please share it in the comments section or email Carol Deptolla at [email protected].

Former bakers or their families: Consider sharing a recipe from a bakery that no longer exists for possible inclusion in a future article. It's a way for the bakery to live on, other than just in customers' memories. Send recipes to [email protected] or to Carol Deptolla, Milwaukee Journal Sentinel, P.O. Box 661, Milwaukee, WI 53201.

About Carol Deptolla

Carol Deptolla is the Journal Sentinel dining critic. She also reports on restaurants, bars and other food- and drink-related businesses.

An important tip to remember when using a bundt pan is that you must grease and flour every area of the dish before you pour in the batter. Before you place the pan in the oven, thump it a couple of times to remove any air bubbles from the batter. It is best to use a moist cake batter with this style of pan. The extra surface created with bundt pans means that your cake could dry out quickly.

If you need a cake or dessert for your next event, visit Belmar Bakery & Cafe at 3325 Bell St. in Amarillo, Texas. We specialize in decorated cakes of all flavors, shapes, and sizes. We now have over ten flavors of Bundt Cakes ready for you to take home, including classic vanilla, triple chocolate, Italian cream, and lemon bliss. Call us today at (806) 355-0141 or Contact Us by email to learn more about our Cakes and our Cafe.

Why Department Stores Are Becoming. Restaurants

Jeannie’s, a sit-down restaurant in Nordstrom’s new Manhattan location, is led by Tom Douglas, a James Beard Award-winning chef.

Jacob Gallagher

SHOPPERS AT THE NEW Nordstrom in midtown Manhattan who flag with hunger while contemplating Valentino sweaters or Vans sneakers have plenty of options for sustenance. The 320,000-square-foot, seven-level department store features a staggering seven eateries, from the luxe, sit-down restaurant “Wolf” to a stall slinging mochi donuts.

That might seem like a lot of canteens to cram under one roof, but Nordstrom’s feeding frenzy aligns with a broader trend for in-store restaurants that curiously defies the mounting bad news for brick-and-mortar retail. Earlier this year, Saks Fifth Avenue Manhattan flagship store opened a Philippe Starck-designed outpost of L’Avenue, the haute Parisian eatery. Just north of that on E. 55th Street is Ralph Lauren’s Polo Bar, which first offered shoppers posh nourishment in 2015 in a space next to a Polo store. The retail outlet itself closed in 2017, but the restaurant has endured and then some: Dinner reservations are still tough to secure and celebrities like Robert DeNiro or Meghan Markle have stopped by to feast on dishes like a $40 grilled branzino. A minute away is another newcomer, Tiffany & Co.’s pricey Blue Box Cafe, perched on the fourth floor of the 182-year-old jewelry store, with clear views of Central Park. Also nearby is Palette, the newly renovated, pop-art-styled restaurant in the basement of 120-year-old department store Bergdorf Goodman.

This retail-restaurant surge is not confined to premium meals. The downtown streetwear emporium Kith has allotted square-footage to “Treats,” an ice-cream-and-cereal bar with signature ice cream cones named after notables like LeBron James and rapper Action Bronson. Meanwhile, an inviting, all-day café called Rose Bakery occupies the first floor of the multi-brand boutique Dover Street Market in Murray Hill. Nor is this trend confined to New York City. The Dover Street Market outlets in Los Angeles and Tokyo have their own Rose Bakeries. And in the famed Parisian department store Galeries Lafayette, buzzy local designer Simon Porte Jacquemus recently created Oursin, an airy, tree-canopied restaurant.

These high-profile openings come at a time when the retail sector is wavering. Analysis by Retail Metrics Apparel Group from May of this year found that earnings at apparel retail brands were collectively down 24% from the previous quarter. In recent months, Forever 21 and Barneys New York became the latest retailers to file for bankruptcy, following companies like Loehmann’s, Diesel and Payless. Not only are stores closing, but the remaining retailers can appear increasingly interchangeable. Multi-brand department stores and convenient e-commerce outlets all offer the same Nike Air Force Ones, the same Prada jackets. But a restaurant in a store? That’s a unique experience. Or so the thinking goes. Richard Moore, divisional VP of global store design and creative visual merchandising at Tiffany & Co., said he’s observed that many customers seek out the Blue Box Cafe for a trophy moment “that they share on Instagram.” According to Mr. Moore, customers go to great lengths to secure that experience: Two of the café’s first customers were a couple from Tokyo who flew overnight just to attend the grand opening.

The concept of a destination in-store eatery dates at least to the 19th century. Michael Lisicky, a historian of department stores who’s written 10 books on the subject, said that Wanamaker’s in Philadelphia was the first American department store to open its own restaurant in 1878. By the mid-to-late-20th century, a golden era for the such restaurants, New York City was speckled with famed dining rooms like Charleston Gardens at B. Altman & Co., Bird Cage at Lord & Taylor and Le Train Bleu at Bloomingdale’s.

Watch the video: Breakfast at Angelina. The best spot in Paris to relive the Belle Epoque charm. (December 2021).